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Tool Checklist
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Spirit level / Straight edge
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Battens
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Trowels (Gauging & Notched)
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Grout float or Grout squeegee
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Tile Cutters (Manual or Electric)
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Tile Scriber / Combination cutter
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Tile Rubbing block
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Tile Nippers
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Tile saw
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Hammer
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W&F Tiling Kit
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Nails
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Sponge
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Tape measure
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Tile trim
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Spacers
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Pencil
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Gloves
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Safety Glasses / Goggles
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Clean, dry, soft cloth
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Rubi Tiling Kit
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Tile Calculator |
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One of the easiest methods for estimating how many tiles you need is to measure the height of the wall and the height of your tiles. You can then estimate how many tiles will be needed to go up the wall (count half tiles as full ones). Do the same for the width of the wall, then multiply the numbers. This will give you the number of tiles needed to tile the wall you have measured. Work your way around the room and adjust the amount for windows, doorways.
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Dado / Listello / Border Tiles |
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If you are putting a dado tile around the room, to calculate the number of dado tiles needed, measure the perimeter of the room and divide by the length of your tile to get the quantity of tiles. Add on an extra tile for each internal and external corner, this will allow for wastage on cut tiles. Always purchase your tiles in one batch and work from several boxes to achieve a good blend of shading.
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Choose the right Adhesive, Grout and Trowel |
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Area to be tiled
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Adhesive
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Grout
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Trowel
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Kitchen wall
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BAL Blue Star
BAL Green Star
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BAL Microflex
Wall Grout
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BAL Round
Notched Trowel
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Worktop
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BAL White Star
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BAL Micropoxy
Epoxy Grout
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BAL Thin Bed
Solid Bed Trowel
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Bathroom wall
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BAL Blue Star
BAL Green Star
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BAL Superflex
Wall Grout
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BAL Round
Notched Trowel
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Domestic shower
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BAL White Star
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BAL Microflex
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BAL Thin Bed
Solid Bed Trowel
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Hall/Conservatory
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BAL Blue Star
BAL Green Star
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BAL Superflex
Wall Grout
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BAL Thin Bed
Solid Bed Trowel
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These are general adhesive and grout choices, there are numerous other options, for more information ask your tile stockist or call the BAL Technical Advisory Service.
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Surface Preparation |
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Make sure that walls are smooth, any cracks have been filled and the substrate can support the weight of the chosen tile finish.
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Substrate
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Prior to tiling
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Gypsum plaster
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Leave new plaster for 4 weeks. Brush shiny plaster with stiff bristled brush and remove any dust. Prime with BAL Prime APD, diluted 1:1 with water. Ensure old finish coat plaster is sound prior to fixing tiles.
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New dense concrete,
concrete blocks & bricks
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Leave for 6 weeks.
Check for suitability prior to application.
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Existing tiles
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Check they are well bonded and free from grease/oily deposits. Score existing tiles to aid adhesion.
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Plasterboard, fibre or cement boards
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Boards should be securely screwed to a timber framework at 300mm centres, horizontally and
vertically, to provide a rigid substrate.
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Paintwork or wallpaper
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Loose paint, emulsion paint, loose plaster and all wallpaper must be removed before commencing tiling. Score any gloss paint. Remove any flaky paint mechanically (do not use paintstripper).
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Setting Out |
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As a general rule, tiling should be set out from the centre of the wall. This means that there are two options:
1. either the centre of the tile in the centre of the wall, or
2. the centre joint between the two tiles positioned either side of the centre line.
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A measuring gauge will help you plan the position of your tiles. To make the measuring gauge, take a length of timber and mark the width of your tiles including the spacers along it. Check each option to see which gives the most advantageous cuts to the ends at each side of the wall, the window and the border design. Fixing battens will help you to keep the tiling straight.
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Find the lowest point you are tiling to, e.g. a skirting board, position the nearest full tile at this point, mark above the tile, and using a spirit level, draw a level line. Nail a batten to the wall below the line to work to. Ensure that the batten is level because your first row of tiles will rest on it. Draw your centre line as a start point with the help of a spirit level to check the vertical line is straight. Either fix a vertical batten as a guide or use your pencil line to tile up to. Start your tiling where the two vertical and horizontal lines meet, in the centre point chosen on your wall.
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Starting Tiling |
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To spread the adhesive, hold your trowel at a 45° angle. Apply the adhesive to form straight ribs. Apply an area of adhesive to cover several tiles but no more than you will be able to tile within 20 minutes.
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Press the tiles firmly and evenly into the adhesive using a twisting / sliding action ensuring that the adhesive forms a strong bond to the back of the tile.
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If the adhesive forms a skin before you have managed to place a tile, remove and replace with new. Remove any guide battens and spacers carefully after 12 hours.
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Use a tile trim to give a neat finish at tile edges and corners. Tile trim is available in various thicknesses to accommodate the different depths of tile and is bedded into the tile adhesive.
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Cutting Tiles |
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You are now ready to tile the areas requiring cut tiles. To cut a tile, mark the front of the tile and score the glazed side of the tile to break the glaze using a tile scriber and a rule or use a thin rail cutter. Tile nippers and saws can be used to cut corners or curves out of tiles.
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Grouting |
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If you have completed all the tiling and allowed the adhesive to dry out for 24 hours (or 72 hours minimum when tiling onto tile) you are then ready to start grouting. Check that the joints are dry and free of adhesive residue or dust.
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Working in small areas, use a grout float to fill the joint with cementitious or
ready-mixed grout. Clean off the grout using the grout float, strike off excess grout at 45° using a clean fine sponge. Polish tiles with a soft, dry cloth.
NB: Epoxy grouts (recommended for use on worktops) require a different type of application, refer to the packaging instructions. Showers should not be brought into service for 14 days after grouting.
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Movement Joints and Sealing |
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Joints between tiles and baths, sinks, worktops, etc should be sealed to prevent water leaking behind fixtures with a BAL Silicone Sealant. Sealant should also be applied to all internal corners. Allow a bead width of 6mm for the sealant.
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