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| We are Members of The Tile Association |
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| PLANNING |
| TOOLS CHECKLIST |
- Spirit level/Straight edge
- Battens
- Trowels (gauging & notched)
- Grout float or grout squeegee
- Tile cutters
- Tile scriber/combination cutter
- Tile rubbing block
- Tile nippers
- Tile saw
- Hammer
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- Nails
- Sponge
- Tape measure
- Tile trim
- Spacers
- Pencil
- Gloves
- Safety glasses
- Clean, dry, soft cloth
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TILE CALCULATOR
One of the easiest methods for estimating how many tiles you need is
to measure the height of the wall and the height of your tiles. You can
then estimate how many tiles will be needed to go up the wall (count half
tiles as full ones). Do the same for the width of the wall, then multiply the
numbers. This will give you the number of tiles needed to tile the wall you
have measured. Work your way around the room and adjust the amount
for windows, doorways.
DADO/LISTELLO/BORDER TILES
If you are putting a dado tile around the room, to calculate the number of
dado tiles needed, measure the perimeter of the room and divide by the
length of your tile to get the quantity of tiles. Add on an extra tile for each
internal and external corner, this will allow for wastage on cut tiles.
Always purchase your tiles in one batch and work from several boxes to
achieve a good blend of shading.
CHOOSE THE RIGHT ADHESIVE,
GROUT AND TROWEL |
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| Area to be tiled |
Adhesive |
Wall Grout |
Trowel |
| Kitchen wall |
BAL Blue Star
BAL Green Star |
BAL Microflex
Wall Grout |
BAL Round
Notched Trowel |
| Worktop |
BAL White Star |
BAL Micropoxy
Epoxy Grout |
BAL Thin Bed
Solid Bed Trowel |
| Bathroom wall |
BAL Blue Star
BAL Green Star |
BAL Superflex
Wall Grout |
BAL Round
Notched Trowel |
| Domestic shower |
BAL White Star |
BAL Microflex |
BAL Thin Bed
Solid Bed Trowel |
| Hall/Conservatory |
BAL Blue Star
BAL Green Star |
BAL Superflex
Wall Grout |
BAL Thin Bed
Solid Bed Trowel |
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| These are general adhesive and grout choices, there are numerous other
options, for more information ask your tile stockist or call the BAL Technical
Advisory Service. |
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| Ceramic tiles are an ideal, hygienic choice for wall tiling and are easy to maintain. There are so many different colours and finishes of tile available which will give you a strong, water resistant finish whilst accommodating the majority of tastes. |
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THE BAL 10 YEAR GUARANTEE
BAL products* are supplied with the benefit of a
10 year product guarantee. For further details or copies
please contact the Company’s marketing department.
*Except BAL Tile Aftercare products. |
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Building Adhesives Limited,
Longton Road, Trentham, Stoke-on-Trent, ST4 8JB, England.
Sales Tel: +44 (0) 1782 591160 Fax: +44 (0) 1782 591131
Technical Tel: +44 (0) 1782 591120 Fax: +44 (0) 1782 591121
www.building-adhesives.com
Unit 6, Plato Business Park, Damastown Industrial Estate,
Damastown, Dublin 15, Ireland.
Tel: +353 (0) 1 822 2776 Fax: +353 (0) 1 822 2777 |
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Note:
The customer must verify the suitability of any information, opinion, recommendation or advice (“Information”) provided by the
Company for the particular application for which any goods are intended to be used and the Company accepts no liability (whether in
contract, tort or otherwise) Whatsoever for any loss, damage or expense arising from the misuse of any Information it supplies nor for
the use of any Information in or for applications which are unsuitable or inappropriate. Building Adhesives Limited operates a continuous
research and development programme and reserves the right to alter or to update Information from time to time.
© Copyright Building Adhesives Limited 2005 |
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| SURFACE PREPARATION |
| Make sure that walls are smooth, any cracks have been filled and the substrate can support the weight of the chosen tile finish. |
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| Substrate |
Prior to tiling |
| Gypsum plaster |
Leave new plaster for 4 weeks. Brush shiny plaster with stiff bristled brush and remove any dust. Prime with BAL Prime APD, diluted 1:1
with water. Ensure old finish coat plaster is sound prior to fixing tiles. |
New dense concrete,
concrete blocks & bricks |
Leave for 6 weeks.
Check for suitability prior to application. |
| Existing tiles |
Check they are well bonded and free from grease/oily deposits. Score existing tiles
to aid adhesion. |
| Plasterboard, fibre or cement boards |
Boards should be securely screwed to a timber framework at 300mm centres, horizontally and
vertically, to provide a rigid substrate. |
| Paintwork or wallpaper |
Loose paint, emulsion paint, loose plaster and all
wallpaper must be removed before commencing
tiling. Score any gloss paint. Remove any flaky
paint mechanically (do not use paintstripper). |
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| SETTING OUT |
 As a general rule, tiling should
be set out from the centre of
the wall. This means that
there are two options:
1. either the centre of the tile
in the centre of the wall, or
2. the centre joint between the
two tiles positioned either side
of the centre line.
A measuring gauge will help you plan the position
of your tiles. To make the measuring gauge, take a
length of timber and mark the width of your tiles
including the spacers along it. Check each option to
see which gives the most advantageous cuts to the
ends at each side of the wall, the window and the
border design. Fixing battens will help you to keep
the tiling straight.
Find the lowest point you are tiling to, e.g. a skirting board, position the
nearest full tile at this point, mark above the tile, and using a spirit level,
draw a level line. Nail a batten to the wall below the line to work to.
Ensure that the batten is level because your first row of tiles will rest on it.
Draw your centre line as a start point with the help of a spirit level to check
the vertical line is straight. Either fix a vertical batten as a guide or use
your pencil line to tile up to. Start your tiling where the two vertical and
horizontal lines meet, in the centre point chosen on your wall.
STARTING TILING
 To spread the adhesive, hold your trowel at a 450 angle. Apply the adhesive to form straight ribs. Apply an area of adhesive to cover several tiles but no more than you will be able to tile within 20 minutes.
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 Press the tiles firmly and evenly into the adhesive using a twisting/sliding action ensuring that the adhesive forms a strong bond to the back of the tile. |
 If the adhesive forms a skin before
you have managed to place a tile, remove and replace with new. Remove any guide battens and spacers carefully after 12 hours. |
 Use a tile trim to give a neat
finish at tile edges and corners.
Tile trim is available in various
thicknesses to accommodate the
different depths of tile and is
bedded into the tile adhesive.
CUTTING TILES
You are now ready to tile the areas requiring cut tiles. To cut a tile, mark
the front of the tile and score the glazed side of the tile to break the glaze
using a tile scriber and a rule or use a thin rail cutter. Tile nippers and saws
can be used to cut corners or curves out of tiles.
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| GROUTING |
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 If you have completed all
the tiling and allowed the
adhesive to dry out for 24
hours (or 72 hours minimum
when tiling onto tile) you are
then ready to start grouting.
Check that the joints are
dry and free of adhesive
residue or dust. |
 Working in small areas,
use a grout float to fill the
joint with cementitious or
ready-mixed grout. Clean
off the grout using the grout
float, strike off excess grout
at 450 using a clean fine
sponge. Polish tiles with
a soft, dry cloth.
NB: Epoxy grouts
(recommended for use on
worktops) require a different
type of application, refer to
the packaging instructions.
Showers should not be brought into service for 14 days after grouting.
 MOVEMENT JOINTS & SEALING
Joints between tiles and baths,
sinks, worktops etc. should be
sealed to prevent water leaking
behind fixtures with a BAL Silicone
Sealant. Sealant should also
be applied to all internal corners.
Allow a bead width of 6mm for
the sealant. |
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