Installing your new Trepanel Lux® SPC flooring is a transformative way to bring durable, stylish surfaces into your home. This guide walks you through the step-by-step process of SPC click flooring installation with the Trepanel Lux® range, ensuring a smooth and professional finish. Whether you’re laying wood-effect SPC flooring, SPC tile flooring, or tackling the intricate nature of SPC herringbone flooring, this manual will help you achieve excellent results. Designed for both first-time DIYers and seasoned installers, Trepanel Lux® is a premium SPC luxury vinyl flooring that combines the beauty of vinyl flooring with the strength and stability of stone plastic composite. Follow these instructions to ensure your SPC vinyl flooring is installed correctly, looks great, and lasts for years to come.
Contents:
- > Preparation
- > You Will Need
- > How to Install SPC Wood Effect Planks
- > How to Install SPC Vinyl Tiles
- > How to Install Herringbone SPC Flooring
- > SPC Floor Installation in Wet Areas
- > Finishing Touches
- > How to Disassemble SPC flooring
Preparation (Applicable to all Trepanel Lux® Flooring Installations)
Your subfloor will need to be in the correct condition before installation. Here are some of the subfloor requirements:
– Flatness: Must be flat within 5mm over 3m to avoid gapping, buckling and damage to the click-lock system.
– Moisture Control: Use 0.15mm poly sheeting over concrete. Moisture limits:
RH: Max 80–90% (ASTM F2170)
MVER: ≤3.63 kg/92 m² per 24h (ASTM F1869)
CM: ≤2.5%
MC: ≤4.0% (if applicable)
– Structural Soundness: Your subfloor must not move and should be structurally sound.
– Unsuitable Substrates: No carpets, cushioned vinyl, floating floors, or wood-covered concrete.
Your subfloor will need to be in the correct condition before installation. Here are some of the subfloor requirements:
– Temperature: Maintain 20–25°C before and during installation.
– Acclimation: required if flooring has been exposed to <10°C or >35°C in the last 12 hours.
– Use expansion joints for areas over 400m² or 20m in length.
Before you begin, please consideer the following:
– Mix planks from 2-3 cartons to blend shades and variation.
– Inspect all pieces/tiles for defects in daylight, reporting those to use as soon as possible.
– Do not install kitchen cabinets or heavy furniture on top of the SPC flooring.
– Leave expansion gaps: 6-8mm around all fixed objects and walls.
Installation
You Will Need:
– Rubber mallet
– Spacers
– Tapping block
– Utility knife
– Chalk line
– Tape measure
– Ruler
– Broom/vacuum
– Spirit level
– PPE (eye protection, gloves etc)
How to Install SPC Flooring Planks
Setup –
Place supporting boards along the wall at each short seam of the first row.
Always leave a 6mm expansion gap using spacers between the planks and the wall or fixed objects.
1 – Supporting Boards
Begin by placing supporting boards along the start wall to help keep your first row steady. Your supporting boards will be removed later.
2 – First Plank
Lay the first plank with the groove facing you and tongue against the wall. Maintain the 6mm expansion gap.
3 – Second Plank
Drop the plank and gently tap down the end with a rubber mallet so it firmly locks into the previous plank until both are at the same height. Make sure both planks are perfectly aligned. It’s crucial that the short edges of two connecting planks are correctly aligned and the rubber mallet contacts the plank in the area directly above the short edges, allowing for correct locking.
4 – Continue the Row
Lay planks end-to-end until reaching the opposite wall. Measure and cut the last plank as needed to leave the correct expansion space.
5 – Cutting Planks
Score the top surface multiple times along the same line using a utility knife and ruler. Bend the plank to snap it cleanly.
6 – Second Row
Begin the second row with the cut end from the previous row (minimum 30cm). The end joints of each adjoining row should now be closer than 20cm to each other.
7 – Second Row, Second Plank
Click the long side of the plank into the previous row and place it tight to the short end of the previous plank with an angle of 25-30°. From now on, drop the plank and tap the long side with a tapping block and rubber mallet to ensure there are no gaps. Then, gently tap the short end until it firmly locks into the previous plank and both are at the same height. Make sure both planks are perfectly aligned.
8 – After Every Row
Use a tapping block and a small hammer or rubber mallet to gently tap the planks into the click of the previous row to make sure they are tightly clicked together and make sure there is no gap.
9 – Alignment Checks
After the first 3 rows, remove the supporting boards from the beginning, sliding the connected panels toward the wall. Use a string line to check alignment. If they are not aligned, it could be that the starting wall has some irregularities that caused bowing in the installation. If so, the starting row of planks may have to be scribed and retrimmed to account for any unevenness in the wall. This can be done without having to disassemble the beginning rows.
10 – Final Row
Align a loose plank over the last row laid. Place another board on top of that with the tongue groove touching the wall. Draw a long line along the edge of the top board where it lines up with the one underneath. Cut along this line to accomodate your 6mm expansion gap.
11 – Holes for Pipes
Measure the diameter of the pipe you need to accomodate, and drill a hole that is 12mm larger for your expansion. To make this easier, cut the board across the width, where your pipe will be, and cut two halves of the hole on either piece, to then wrap around the pipe.
12 – Door Moulding
Lay a board (with the decorative side down) next to the door moulding and saw, sliding the plank under the moulding when done.
How to Install SPC Vinyl Tiles
Brick Pattern –
A classic layout with staggered tiles for a timeless look.
1 – Measure and Plan
Ensure perimeter tiles on opposing walls are of equal width.
Adjust the first tile’s width accordingly.
2 – Cutting Tiles
Score with a utility knife several times on the top side of the tile.
Snap cleanly by bending along the scored line.
3 – Lay the First Row
Start in the left-hand corner of the longest wall. Place supporting boards against the wall. You should place one supporting board for each short seam of the first row. Supporting boards will be removed later.
4 – First Row, First Tile
Proceed by laying the tiles from the wall with the tongue sides facing the wall and the groove facing outwards. Groove sides are marked with arrows on the back of the tiles. Use 8mm spacers for expansion gaps.
5 – First Row, Second Tile
Lay your second tile on the right-hand side of the first, aligning its left side over the groove on the right side of the first. Make sure these are aligned. Gently tap down with a rubber mallet to lock into place. The mallet should hit the tile directly above the locking system.
Note: Tapping the area close to the edge, but not directly above it, may result in permanent damage to the joint. If you notice that both tiles aren’t at the same height or are not properly lined up, please follow the disassembling instructions later on to disassemble and check if any debris is stuck inside the lock. Continuing the installation could result in permanent damage to the end joint or the entire installation.
6 – First Row, Last Tile
At the end of the first row, ensure you leave an 8mm expansion gap.
7 – Second Row, First Tile
Before starting the second row, mark the centre of the second tile in the first row and draw a 90° chalk line across the room. Trim the first tile of the second row so its right edge aligns with this line. Click the long edge into the first row at a 25–30° angle, slide toward the wall (maintaining an 8mm gap), then fold down to lock, ensuring a tight fit and proper alignment.
8 – Second Row, Second Tile
Lay down the second tile on the right-hand side of the first by clicking it into the previous row. Make sure both tiles are aligned. Gently tap with a rubber mallet to lock into place. The mallet should hit the tie directly above the locking system.
9 – After Every Row
Use a tapping block and a small hammer or rubber mallet to gently tap the planks into the click of the previous row to make sure they are tightly clicked together and make sure there is no gap.
10 – Alignment Checks
After the first 3 rows, remove the supporting boards from the beginning, sliding the connected panels toward the wall. Use a string line to check alignment. If they are not aligned, it could be that the starting wall has some irregularities that caused bowing in the installation. If so, the starting row of planks may have to be scribed and retrimmed to account for any unevenness in the wall. This can be done without having to disassemble the beginning rows.
11 – Final Row
Align a loose plank over the last row laid. Place another board on top of that with the tongue groove touching the wall. Draw a line along the edge of the top board where it lines up with the one underneath. Cut along this line to accommodate your 6mm expansion gap.
12 – Holes for Pipes
Measure the diameter of the pipe you need to accommodate, and drill a hole that is 12mm larger for your expansion. To make this easier, cut the board across the width, where your pipe will be, and cut two halves of the hole on either piece, to then wrap around the pipe.
13 – Door Moulding
Lay a board (with the decorative side down) next to the door moulding and saw, sliding the plank under the moulding when done.
How to Install Herringbone SPC Flooring
Herringbone layouts are more intricate and visually striking. Three patterns are achievable.
Pattern 1 – Fishbone Diagonal
1 – Separate L and R Planks
Check the back of each plank for an L or R marking, and separate into two piles.
2 – Mark a 45° Line
Using a pencil, string and a ruler, draw a line at 45° that will be used to align the pattern according to the image. You can then start staggering your spacers across your wall, leaving a 6mm expansion gap with the wall.
3 – Begin Laying
Start from the left corner opposite the door.
– First plank: “L” with tongue toward the wall.
– Second plan: “R”, placed perpendicular to the first plank.
4 – Continue in Sequence
Work diagonally across the room.
5 – Cutting Edge Planks
You will need to cut your 3rd L and 4th R
- Measure and cut any plank touching a wall.
- Ensure correct orientation (L or R) to maintain pattern integrity.
Pattern 2: Fishbone (Standard Herringbone)
1 – Prepare Starting Set
You will need to cut 5 planks to start the first row. These will be L1, L2, L3, R1 and R2. Follow the template on the box your planks came in.
2 – Align Centre Line
Mark a chalk line through the centre of the room, ensuring the line goes through the middle of the short side of the planks.
3 – Install Starting Set
Place it aligned with your chalk line. Leave a 6mm expansion gap with spacers.
Calculate how many starting sets you’ll need for the length of the room, and cut the pieces to match.
4 – Continue the Pattern
– Add one full plank between each set to connect them.
– For edge adjustment, measure the gap, mark a new set, cut to size and install.
5 – Continue
Continue this pattern until the room is entirely covered, locking the tongue and groove into place with a rubber mallet.
Pattern 3: Double Fishbone Pattern
1 – Cutting Requirements
| Plank | | Groove Side | | Tongue Side |
| L1 | 137mm | 0mm |
| L2 | 275mm | 137mm |
| R1 | 412mm | 275mm |
| R2 | 550mm | 417mm |
| L3 | 687mm | 550mm |
2 – Centre Line
Draw the centre line through your room. Align the first starting set with your centre line, aligning the point of your L3 plank with the line.
3 – Continue Setting Starting Sets
- Leave a 6mm expansion gap.
- Measure how many starting sets you will need for the length of your room.
- Add one full plank between each set to connect them.
- For edge adjustment, measure the gap, mark a new set, cut to size and install.
4 – Apply Adhesive for Security
- We recommend a high-grip, hard-setting adhesive inside the short edge locks (not excessive).
- Wipe away excess adhesive immediately to avoid it drying to the flooring.
5 – Clicking Tips
- Lock at 45°, and then fold down onto the floor.
- Knock with a slight tap of a rubber mallet after clicking to ensure a correct, tight fit.
6 – Holes for Pipes
Measure the diameter of the pipe you need to accommodate, and drill a hole that is 12mm larger for your expansion. To make this easier, cut the board across the width, where your pipe will be, and cut two halves of the hole on either piece, to then wrap around the pipe.
7 – Door Moulding
Lay a board (with the decorative side down) next to the door moulding and saw, sliding the plank under the moulding when done.
SPC Floor Installation in Wet Areas
Use T mouldings to separate wet from dry zones.
Fill expansion gaps with a compressible PE foam backer rod.
Cover these and seal the entire perimeter of the flooring using 100% silicone sealant (never acrylic).
Silicone around doorframes and fixed objects like toilets and basins.
Please note: This flooring is not warranted for installation in wet areas with running water and areas with built-in drains, e.g. pools or showers/wet rooms.
Finishing Touches and Maintenance
Finishing
Protect exposed edges by installing wall moulding and/or transition strips. Allow a slight clearance between the moulding and the planks. Do not secure the SPC flooring to the subfloor.
Leave 6-8mm gaps at transitions, between the planks and the adjoining surface.
Maintenance
- Use soft-bristle brooms/vacuums.
- Neutral cleaners only – no bleach, abrasives, or wax.
- Use felt pads under furniture feet/legs and caster-friendly mats.
- Avoid rubber-backed mats.
How to Disassemble SPC Flooring
Lift full rows at a time, lifting at an angle. Slide boards apart while they are flat, avoiding more than a 5° angle. Check for debris if you find your joints don’t come apart easily.
Conclusion
With the right preparation and careful installation, your SPC vinyl flooring installation will offer a beautiful and resilient surface for any room in your home. From classic wood effect SPC flooring and realistic SPC tile flooring to elegant SPC herringbone flooring, Trepanel Lux® provides versatile solutions that are as practical as they are stylish. This guide has covered everything from subfloor readiness and layout planning to expansion gaps and finishing details, ensuring your SPC click flooring project goes smoothly. By following these easy-to-understand steps, you’ll enjoy the lasting benefits of high-quality, waterproof, and low-maintenance SPC luxury vinyl flooring that elevates the look and feel of your space.
Still have questions? Contact our team! Tag us with pictures of your finished installations on Instagram, @Wallsandfloors. You may be featured on our page!
